15-Day Morocco Tour from Agadir: Chefchaouen & the Sahara

An easy day east along the old kasbah road. We follow the valley through the Skoura palm oasis and the rose-growing villages below Kelaat M'Gouna, reaching the mouth of the Dades gorge in the afternoon. Around three hours of driving.

• The Skoura palm oasis and the Amridil Kasbah
• The old kasbah road along the Dades valley
• Kelaat M'Gouna, where the rose harvest is distilled each spring
• Lunch en route
• The Valley of Roses and its terraced fields
• Arrival at Boumalne Dades
• Late afternoon walk up the gorge to the switchback viewpoint

Overnight in the Dades Valley.

A day that ends on foot. We follow the road east through Tinghir to the Todgha Gorges, then cross the hamada to Merzouga, timed so the camels leave in the late afternoon and you reach camp as the light goes.

• Morning through the Dades gorge and its switchback road
• Tinghir, with its palm oasis strung along the valley floor
• The Todgha Gorges, where the cliffs close to a few hundred metres apart
• Lunch in Tinghir
• Afternoon across the hamada by Tinejdad and Erfoud
• Arrival at the edge of Erg Chebbi
• Camel trek into the dunes, roughly ninety minutes
• Dinner and Gnawa drumming at camp

Overnight in a desert camp at Erg Chebbi.

The day the itinerary makes room for. With no transfer to drive, the desert opens up past the dune crest: nomad families still working the hamada, the Gnawa village at Khamlia, and the dry lake north of the erg.

• Sunrise over the dunes, then breakfast at camp
• Camel trek back to Merzouga
• 4x4 circuit around the erg
• Khamlia, the Gnawa village, for a session of their music
• Visit to a nomad family living out on the hamada
• Dayet Srji, the dry lake where flamingos gather after rain
• Afternoon at leisure, or sunset from the dune crest

Overnight in Merzouga.

The long return north, retracing the Ziz and climbing back onto the Middle Atlas plateau. Around eight hours, so we leave early and keep the stops brief.

• Sunrise over Erg Chebbi before breakfast
• North through Erfoud and Er Rachidia
• The Ziz valley viewpoint above the palm oasis
• The climb onto the high plateau
• Lunch at Midelt
• Azrou and the cedar forest, with macaques at the roadside
• Ifrane and the descent to the Sais plain

Overnight in Fez.

Fez el Bali is the largest car-free urban area in the world and the oldest of the imperial capitals. A full day is the least it takes to get any sense of it, and most of that day is on foot.

• Morning in Fez el Bali, entering by Bab Boujloud
• The Chouara tanneries, seen from the terraces above
• Al Quaraouiyine, founded in 859 and still in use
• The Bou Inania medersa and its carved cedar screens
• Lunch in the medina
• The souks by trade: coppersmiths, dyers, weavers
• Afternoon at the Merenid tombs for the view over the city

Overnight in Fez.

West to the Roman city at Volubilis in the morning, then north into the Rif mountains, reaching Chefchaouen in the late afternoon. Around four and a half hours of driving.

• Morning departure from Fez
• Volubilis, the Roman provincial capital, with its mosaics still in place
• Moulay Idriss, the hill town above the ruins
• Bab Mansour and the imperial walls at Meknes
• Lunch in Meknes
• The climb into the Rif mountains
• Arrival in Chefchaouen in the late afternoon
• The blue-washed medina and Place Outa el Hammam at dusk

Overnight in Chefchaouen.

Down from the Rif to the Mediterranean, then west along the coast to Tanger. Around three hours of driving with the afternoon in the city.

• Morning departure from Chefchaouen
• Descent through the Rif to the Mediterranean
• Tetouan and its UNESCO-listed medina, the most Andalusian in Morocco
• Lunch in Tetouan
• The coast road west with views across the strait
• Cap Spartel, where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic
• The Caves of Hercules below the cape

Overnight in Tanger.

South down the coast with stops at Asilah, where the ramparts are repainted each summer, and at the Roman site above Larache. Around three and a half hours of driving.

• Morning in the Tanger medina and the Kasbah
• South to Asilah and its painted ramparts
• The whitewashed medina above the sea
• Lixus, the Phoenician and Roman site above Larache
• Lunch in Larache
• The coast road south through Kenitra
• Arrival in Rabat in the late afternoon

Overnight in Rabat.

South down the coast with a stop in Casablanca, then inland across the plain to Marrakech. Around four hours of driving.

• Morning departure from Rabat
• The coast road south through Mohammedia
• The Hassan II Mosque, built out over the Atlantic
• Lunch on the Casablanca corniche
• South across the Rehamna plain by Settat
• The Haouz plain and the first view of the Atlas
• Arrival in Marrakech in the late afternoon
• Evening on Jemaa el-Fna as the food stalls open

Overnight in Marrakech.

A day off the road. The medina rewards slow walking, and the gardens on the edge of the new town are where the city goes to escape it.

• Morning in the souks north of Jemaa el-Fna
• The Koutoubia minaret and its gardens
• The Bahia Palace and its painted cedar ceilings
• The Saadian Tombs, sealed up until 1917
• Lunch on a medina terrace
• The Jardin Majorelle or the Menara gardens
• Evening on Jemaa el-Fna as the food stalls open

Overnight in Marrakech.

An easy final day. We leave Marrakech after breakfast and cross the Chiadma plains to the coast, arriving in Essaouira with the afternoon free on the ramparts. Around three hours.

• Morning departure from Marrakech
• West across the Chichaoua plain
• Argan country, with goats grazing up in the branches
• Stop at a women's argan cooperative
• Arrival in Essaouira around midday
• The Skala ramparts and the working fishing port
• Afternoon in the walled medina

Overnight in Essaouira.

South along the Atlantic, a road of cliffs, argan groves and surf beaches, with the afternoon in Agadir. Around three hours.

• Morning departure from Essaouira
• South past Sidi Kaouki and the surf beaches
• The cliffs and the argan country around Tamri
• Lunch at a fishing village on the coast
• Taghazout and Anchor Point
• Arrival in Agadir in the afternoon
• The Kasbah above the bay

Overnight in Agadir.

Inland and up into the Anti-Atlas, a granite country of pink boulders and palm-filled gorges that few itineraries reach. Around three and a half hours climbing most of the way.

• Morning departure south from Agadir
• Tiznit and its red earth walls, known for Amazigh silver
• The climb into the Anti-Atlas by the Ait Baha road
• Lunch en route
• The Ameln valley and its villages under the Jbel Lekst
• Tafraoute, set among pink granite boulders
• The painted rocks on the edge of town at sunset

Overnight in Tafraoute.

A morning among the granite before the descent to the Atlantic. Around four hours of driving spread across the day.

• Morning walk in the Ameln valley
• The village of Oumesnat and its old stone houses
• Almond terraces below the Jbel Lekst
• Lunch in Tafraoute
• The descent by the Ait Baha road
• Argan groves on the run down to the coast

Evening arrival and drop-off in Agadir.